Water Resistant Mascara

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By: TOM BRANNA

Editor

Water Resistant Mascara
Ingredients
%

Phase A-1

  • Deionized water
  • 57.35

0

  • Purethix 1442 (Southern Clay/Rockwood)
  • 0.25
  • Dissolvine Na2-S (Akzo Nobel)
  • 0.10
  • Ticaxan xanthan gum (TIC Gum)
  • 0.15
  • Polyox WSR 205 (Amerchol)
  • 0.15
  • White beeswax SP 422P (S&P)
  • 3.00
  • Carnauba wax SP 63 (S&P)
  • 3.00
  • Fancol VB (Fanning Corp)
  • 3.00
  • Emerol 132 NF (Cognis)
  • 3.00
  • Lipo GMS-450 (Lipo)
  • 1.70
  • Syntran PC 5400 (Interpolymer)
  • 2.00
  • Black iron oxide
  • 3.00
  • Syntran PC 5775 (Interpolymer)
  • 10.00
  • AMP Ultra PC 2000 (Angus)
  • q.s.

Phase A-2

  • Butylene glycol
  • 2.50

Phase A-3

  • AMP Ultra PC 2000 (Angus)
  • 0.50

Phase B

  • Ozokerite wax SP 1028 (S&P)
  • 4.50

Phase C-1

  • Deionized water
  • 5.00

Phase C-2

  • Optiphen (ISP)
  • 0.50

Phase D

  • Glydant Plus Liquid (Lonza)
  • 0.30

Procedure

With high shear agitation, combine water and Purethix and begin heating to 60˚C. Homomix if necessary to completely disperse Purethix. Once Purethix is completely dispersed add Dissolvine.  In a separate vessel premix phase A-2.  When phase A-1 is smooth and homogeneous add phase A-2 and stir with appropriate shear to avoid aeration. Heat to 80˚C. At 80˚C add AMP. In a separate vessel combine all phase B ingredients and heat to 80˚C and stir until completely melted. Add phase B to Phase A and stir until smooth and homogeneous.  Premix phase C-1 and slowly add to Phase A/B at 80˚C. Homomix to disperse pigment if needed. Cool batch to 60˚C.  Add the Optiphen, then slowly add Syntran PC 5775 and stir until batch is smooth and homogeneous. Homomix again if needed. Cool to 40-45˚C and individually add each Phase D ingredient. Adjust pH to 7.75 if necessary.  Final pH to 7.5 – 8.0.

Properties

Final pH—7.5–8.0; Appearance—Light Tan emulsion; % Solids—40%; pH value at 22°C—8.2; Viscosity @ 22°C:—100 mPa.

More Information

Syntran PC 5775 imparts quick-set and superior water resistance to formula while permitting excellent adhesion to eyelashes.  Formula applies easily, sets quickly and will not smudge.  Syntran PC 5400 is used to allow easier dispersion of pigments in water.